The ‘navvies’ of Chalk Farm: fist fights, rowdy pubs and raffling a dead body
Life was dangerous, drunken and relentlessly tough for the men who transformed the neighbourhood carving out the railways
A trip to leafy Belsize Park promises a bounty of possible neighbourhood destination dining options. It feels a world away from the bustle of Camden Town (actually just a stone’s throw down the road), and the bright lights of the City, that dominates views of the skyline from its hills, yet is a super-easy area to access and explore. Head for Belsize Village, nestled in the middle of a handsome Victorian estate of large residential villas and pretty, cobbled mews’, and you’re rewarded with a cluster of much-loved restaurants grouped around the car-free central square. Cinder is all about the fire. It offers an ever-changing seasonal menu of sharing plates of attractively presented veg, seafood and meats that are all ‘kissed by the flames’ of their Josper Oven. Next door, Xinxin is the neighbourhood’s pan-Asian spot, with a menu stretching through assorted dim sum and sushi, and from miso cod to pad Thai.
Teta’s is a family-run Lebanese kitchen serving a vast range of mezza plates plus classic mains like fattoush salads, shawarma and marinated grilled meats. There’s a selection of Lebanese wines from the ‘private cellar’, too. Brazilian BBQ Charro De Rio will ply you with unlimited cuts of prime meats and freshly made salads for a real rodizio grill blowout. They are also one of the local restaurants to make use of the ‘streatery’ that has returned for the summer in the square right in front of them.
Retsina is a beloved family Greek restaurant that’s been a favourite in the area for decades having moved from its original location on nearby Regent’s Park Rd. Gordon Ramsay has heaped praised on their lamb on TV, and you’ll be able to sample 12 meze and a souvlaki main for just £25 if you’re quick to reserve a spot at Secret Feasts on June 14th.
Aperivino is the brand new opening on the square, completing a long-term local project to fill all the once vacant units with lovely independent businesses. It’s a wine bar with a handful of well-appointed outdoor tables and is already drawing the in-the-know locals. Hazara is the long standing Indian restaurant on the corner, offering a mixture of old favourite dishes and some exciting alternatives worth exploration. Roni’s, the rapidly expanding local success story, has a Belsize bagel outpost right here, and while they’re not open for dinner, their superior selection of salads, sarnis, breads and bagels by the half dozen are a key part of the local food landscape.
Calici is passionate about quality Italian food and has a sizable wine list, too. You can enjoy their service in the plush restaurant on out in the square as part of the Belsize Village streatery. Make sure to reserve a spot at Calici for Secret Feasts on June 14th before they are all gone.
Around the corner on England’s Lane you’ll encounter an abundance of daytime cafes, bakeries and coffee options, but for a complete destination meal, newcomer Terra Moderna is already turning heads for its Antopodean-inspired modern Italian menu. The Washington is a really handsome Victorian pub doing cracking roasts and above average pub grub if you can angle for a table amongst all the loyal regulars. Out on Haverstock Hill there are plenty of safe chain restaurants, and also a few smaller ones with a handful of London sites. Jakob’s Kitchen does colourful Middle Eastern salad bowls and healthy hot pots in cosy surrounds. Recent arrival Cinquecento specialises in Neapolitan pizza using exclusively Italian ingredients for added untouchable authenticity. The brightly painted Remedy Kitchen is all about healthy stews, heart-warming soups and superfood bowls and wraps to make you feel good about yourself. At the other end of the hunger scale, all-you-can-eat basement Brazil Grill is the spot to load up on unlimited meats and pile plates high from salad buffet, or you could squeeze into diminutive sushi bar Sushi Masa for a rolled-in-front-of-your-eyes omakase experience.
Oliver’s Fish & Chips do a damn fine take on the takeaway classic, which proves really fun to eat in on proper plates for the ultimate crunchy battered cod, haddock and more, golden and straight from the fryer. Keenly priced wines keep it a more affordable night out, too. Jamon Jamon is the long-standing local taps joint with an airy interior and a lovely little terrace for summertime dining that really feels like being on holiday. Tish boasts another beautiful and this time huge terrace opposite, serving contemporary kosher dishes and Jewish heritage favourites, with a sumptuous dining room inside, too. Tetto’s Hampstead is a glam steakhouse offering crazy gold leaf wrapped burgers and with and Instagram sensation knife-and-salt-wielding chef at the helm. It also boasts the area’s only rooftop bar and terrace.
Greenberry Hill is the new outpost from the acclaimed Primrose Hill all day café. They are offering a full meal of spatchcock poussin with a specially created #secretfeasts cocktail on June 14th, so reserve a spot while they’re still some left!
Secret Feasts in Belsize Park and Haverstock is supported by Vabel.
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